[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":615},["ShallowReactive",2],{"diaries-\u002Fdiaries\u002Fyilan-hotspring-spa":3,"footer-cities":534,"related-\u002Fdiaries\u002Fyilan-hotspring-spa":596},{"id":4,"title":5,"author":6,"body":7,"city":504,"coverImage":505,"description":506,"extension":507,"featured":508,"mainSiteLinks":509,"meta":511,"navigation":512,"path":513,"publishedAt":514,"seo":515,"stem":516,"tags":517,"weight":532,"__hash__":533},"content\u002Fdiaries\u002Fyilan-hotspring-spa.md","宜蘭泡完溫泉順便舒壓的那一晚｜礁溪到羅東，從硫磺味到按摩油的距離","匿名投稿",{"type":8,"value":9,"toc":488},"minimark",[10,17,20,23,26,29,34,45,48,56,59,66,68,72,75,78,85,87,91,100,111,165,168,174,176,180,183,190,193,198,201,204,206,210,213,216,221,224,229,235,237,241,250,253,256,258,262,269,272,275,281,284,287,290,293,296,301,303,306,309,312,318,321,324,327,329,333,336,381,387,390,392,396,403,406,408,411,414,454,473,480,483],[11,12,13],"blockquote",{},[14,15,16],"p",{},"這是一個讀者投稿的真實體驗。為保護當事人隱私，店家名稱已稍作模糊化。",[14,18,19],{},"四月初的那個週六，我本來只打算去礁溪泡個湯、吃個午餐就回台北。",[14,21,22],{},"結果泡完湯整個人太放鬆，腿軟到不想動。坐在湯圍溝公園的長椅上吹風的時候，突然覺得——回台北幹嘛？今天沒有任何人等我。於是我打開手機訂了一間羅東的旅館，決定在宜蘭過夜。",[14,24,25],{},"那個決定，讓那一晚變成了完全不一樣的故事。",[27,28],"hr",{},[30,31,33],"h2",{"id":32},"下午三點礁溪溫泉路上的硫磺味","下午三點：礁溪溫泉路上的硫磺味",[14,35,36,41],{},[37,38],"img",{"alt":39,"src":40},"礁溪溫泉街午後街景","\u002Fimage\u002Fdiary-yilan-jiaoxi-street.webp",[42,43,44],"em",{},"礁溪的空氣裡永遠帶著淡淡的硫磺味——聞久了會上癮",[14,46,47],{},"搭葛瑪蘭客運從台北過來，車程 50 分鐘到礁溪轉運站。一下車就聞到了——那股硫磺味，混著四月午後的潮濕空氣，整個鼻腔都暖了起來。",[14,49,50,51,55],{},"先去湯圍溝溫泉公園泡免費足湯，從轉運站走不到 5 分鐘。脫鞋、捲褲管、把腳放進 ",[52,53,54],"strong",{},"42 度的碳酸氫鈉泉","裡——從台北帶來的焦慮好像都從腳底被抽走了。",[14,57,58],{},"旁邊一對老夫妻在聊天，阿伯用台語說：「今天水溫剛剛好。」阿嬤回：「每天都剛剛好啦。」我笑了。這就是礁溪。",[14,60,61,62,65],{},"泡完腳，走到旁邊的春水笈溫泉湯屋泡大眾裸湯，",[52,63,64],{},"NT$150 不限時","。泡完皮膚滑滑的。池邊兩個大叔在聊台積電，我閉著眼睛聽，覺得人生真的很荒謬又很美好。",[27,67],{},[30,69,71],{"id":70},"傍晚六點從礁溪搭區間車到羅東","傍晚六點：從礁溪搭區間車到羅東",[14,73,74],{},"泡完湯已經下午五點多。全身熱呼呼的，骨頭都軟了。本來要搭客運回台北，但站在礁溪火車站前面的時候，忽然不想回去了。台北的套房裡只有電腦和外送紙箱，回去也是一個人。",[14,76,77],{},"打開訂房 APP，羅東一間商務旅館 NT$1,500，離羅東夜市走路 3 分鐘。訂了。",[14,79,80,81,84],{},"礁溪到羅東的區間車車程 ",[52,82,83],{},"18 分鐘","，票價 NT$31。到羅東站走出來的第一個感覺——跟礁溪完全不同。礁溪是溫泉小鎮的慵懶，羅東是小城市的喧鬧。站前的中正路車水馬龍，經過羅東夜市入口已經聞到蔥油餅的香味。",[27,86],{},[30,88,90],{"id":89},"晚上八點羅東夜市的第一輪掃街","晚上八點：羅東夜市的第一輪掃街",[14,92,93,97],{},[37,94],{"alt":95,"src":96},"羅東夜市人潮","\u002Fimage\u002Fdiary-yilan-luodong-night.webp",[42,98,99],{},"週六晚上的羅東夜市——人潮從中山公園滿出來",[14,101,102,103,106,107,110],{},"旅館出來右轉，走路 3 分鐘就到羅東夜市。週六晚上是戰場，民生路全是排隊人龍。先排了",[52,104,105],{},"義豐蔥油派","——等了 15 分鐘，拿到手外皮酥到會掉屑。再去排",[52,108,109],{},"阿灶伯當歸羊肉湯","，湯頭清燉、鮮甜，羊肉切得薄但有咬勁。",[112,113,114,130],"table",{},[115,116,117],"thead",{},[118,119,120,124,127],"tr",{},[121,122,123],"th",{},"我那晚在羅東夜市吃的",[121,125,126],{},"價格",[121,128,129],{},"一句話",[131,132,133,144,154],"tbody",{},[118,134,135,138,141],{},[136,137,105],"td",{},[136,139,140],{},"NT$40",[136,142,143],{},"外酥內軟，蔥花爆香",[118,145,146,148,151],{},[136,147,109],{},[136,149,150],{},"NT$90",[136,152,153],{},"湯頭清甜，羊肉沒騷味",[118,155,156,159,162],{},[136,157,158],{},"魏姐包心粉圓",[136,160,161],{},"NT$55",[136,163,164],{},"粉圓 Q 彈，黑糖味剛好",[14,166,167],{},"吃飽了。走回旅館的路上經過中正路，看到幾家按摩店還亮著燈。有一家霓虹招牌寫著「養生會館」，透過玻璃門可以看到沙發和飲水機。",[14,169,170,171],{},"我停下腳步看了三秒鐘，然後繼續走。",[52,172,173],{},"但那三秒鐘種下了一顆種子。",[27,175],{},[30,177,179],{"id":178},"晚上十點旅館房間裡的掙扎","晚上十點：旅館房間裡的掙扎",[14,181,182],{},"回到旅館躺在床上，打開電視轉了幾個台，都沒有想看的。",[14,184,185,186,189],{},"滑手機看到一篇「宜蘭養生館心得」，有人分享在羅東找養生館的經驗，說中正路上有幾家老店，價格 ",[52,187,188],{},"NT$1,500-1,800","，按摩品質不錯。留言區有人補充：「羅東的店沒有礁溪觀光區那麼貴，比較實在。」",[14,191,192],{},"我想起剛才經過那家亮著燈的養生會館。又想起下午泡湯時全身被熱水包裹的放鬆感。泡湯解決了肌肉的疲勞，但有一種更深層的疲憊——一個人在台北住了三年、每天對著螢幕 12 小時累積出來的——泡湯碰不到。",[14,194,195],{},[52,196,197],{},"我需要的不只是熱水。我需要被人碰觸。",[14,199,200],{},"打開 LINE，找到上個月朋友給我的幹部聯絡人。之前加了好友但一直沒開口。",[14,202,203],{},"「你好，請問羅東今晚還有嗎？」送出。",[27,205],{},[30,207,209],{"id":208},"晚上十點十五分line-上的對話","晚上十點十五分：LINE 上的對話",[14,211,212],{},"幹部回得很快：「有的，你在羅東哪邊？」",[14,214,215],{},"「中正路，靠近夜市。」",[11,217,218],{},[14,219,220],{},"「養生館有店面，先按摩再半套，NT$1,600-1,800。個工是約在外面，全套，NT$3,000 起。第一次建議養生館。」",[14,222,223],{},"「養生館，NT$1,800 以內。」",[11,225,226],{},[14,227,228],{},"「好。中正北路有一家開到凌晨 1 點，走路 8 分鐘。10:40 到就好。現金。」",[14,230,231,232],{},"沒有推銷更貴的、沒有要求先轉帳。",[52,233,234],{},"幹部的專業程度讓我意外——像在預約一家餐廳。",[27,236],{},[30,238,240],{"id":239},"晚上十點四十分走進中正北路的養生會館","晚上十點四十分：走進中正北路的養生會館",[14,242,243,247],{},[37,244],{"alt":245,"src":246},"羅東深夜街道","\u002Fimage\u002Fdiary-yilan-luodong-street.webp",[42,248,249],{},"深夜的羅東中正路——夜市收攤後的安靜，反而讓人放鬆",[14,251,252],{},"從旅館走出來，沿著中正路往北走。夜市已經在收攤，空氣裡殘留著蔥油餅的味道。走過中山公園，幾個阿伯坐在涼亭裡，收音機播著台語老歌。",[14,254,255],{},"中正北路比較安靜。走了 8 分鐘，看到一棟舊公寓，二樓有個不太顯眼的招牌。爬樓梯上去，門口拖鞋排得整齊。按門鈴，一個四十多歲的大姐開門：「是 LINE 預約的嗎？進來坐，先喝杯茶。」",[27,257],{},[30,259,261],{"id":260},"包廂裡從硫磺味到按摩油的切換","包廂裡——從硫磺味到按摩油的切換",[14,263,264,265,268],{},"大姐收了 ",[52,266,267],{},"NT$1,800 現金","，帶我看了兩張照片讓我選人。",[14,270,271],{},"我選了一個短髮的女生，大姐說她叫小安，25 歲。",[14,273,274],{},"進包廂之前先沖澡。包廂不大，但很乾淨——按摩床上鋪著白色床單，角落有一盞暖黃色的小燈，空氣裡有淡淡的精油味。窗戶關著，但隱約能聽到外面的蟲鳴。",[14,276,277,280],{},[52,278,279],{},"跟下午在礁溪泡湯是完全不同的放鬆。"," 溫泉是熱水包裹全身的物理性放鬆；這裡是安靜、昏暗、有人等著照顧你的心理性放鬆。",[14,282,283],{},"小安推門進來，手上拿著按摩油。",[14,285,286],{},"「你身上有硫磺味耶。今天去礁溪泡湯？」",[14,288,289],{},"「對，下午泡的。」",[14,291,292],{},"「難怪皮膚滑滑的。碳酸氫鈉泉泡完都這樣。」",[14,294,295],{},"她讓我趴下，從肩頸開始按。力道不重，但每一下都按在對的位置。按摩油帶著薰衣草的味道，跟下午的硫磺味形成奇妙的對比。",[14,297,298],{},[52,299,300],{},"從硫磺味到薰衣草味。從公共浴池到私人包廂。這一天好像一直在「打開」什麼。",[27,302],{},[30,304,305],{"id":305},"那五十分鐘裡學到的事",[14,307,308],{},"小安一邊按一邊聊。我說在台北做設計，一個人住，週末常常不知道要幹嘛。",[14,310,311],{},"她說：「很多客人都這樣。不是來找刺激的，是來找一個可以放下防備的地方。」",[14,313,314,315],{},"按摩做了 30 分鐘，後面的服務就不細說了。整個過程很自然，沒有催促。",[52,316,317],{},"不像交易，更像是兩個人之間短暫的、有邊界的親密。",[14,319,320],{},"結束後她遞給我溫水：「你下次來宜蘭，先泡湯再來這邊。泡完肌肉鬆，按摩可以更深層。」",[14,322,323],{},"我笑：「你這是在拉回頭客？」",[14,325,326],{},"她也笑：「算是吧。但我說的是真的。」",[27,328],{},[30,330,332],{"id":331},"凌晨十二點走回旅館路上的羅東","凌晨十二點：走回旅館路上的羅東",[14,334,335],{},"走出來的時候是晚上 11:50。中正北路只剩便利商店的燈還亮著。走回旅館經過夜市——地上還有沒清完的竹籤，空氣裡的食物味被夜風稀釋成一種模糊的甜。",[112,337,338,347],{},[115,339,340],{},[118,341,342,345],{},[121,343,344],{},"那一刻的狀態",[121,346],{},[131,348,349,357,365,373],{},[118,350,351,354],{},[136,352,353],{},"身體",[136,355,356],{},"從下午泡湯到剛才按摩，鬆到快散掉",[118,358,359,362],{},[136,360,361],{},"腦袋",[136,363,364],{},"完全放空，什麼都不想",[118,366,367,370],{},[136,368,369],{},"心情",[136,371,372],{},"平靜、滿足",[118,374,375,378],{},[136,376,377],{},"想法",[136,379,380],{},"「原來一個人的週末可以這樣過」",[14,382,383,384],{},"躺上床，聞了聞手臂——硫磺味已經被按摩油蓋過了，但仔細聞還是有一點點。",[52,385,386],{},"兩種味道疊在一起。這就是今天的味道。",[14,388,389],{},"三分鐘後我就睡著了。近半年來睡得最快的一次。",[27,391],{},[30,393,395],{"id":394},"隔天早上礁溪的早餐和一個結論","隔天早上：礁溪的早餐和一個結論",[14,397,398,399,402],{},"早上八點退房，搭區間車回礁溪。在火車站對面的",[52,400,401],{},"柯氏蔥油餅","排了 10 分鐘，加蛋蔥油餅 NT$40。站在路邊吃，蔥花焦香配上半熟蛋黃，覺得這是全世界最好吃的早餐。",[14,404,405],{},"吃完走去湯圍溝公園再泡一次免費足湯。旁邊阿嬤帶著孫子，小朋友一直尖叫「好燙好燙」但又不肯把腳拿出來。我坐在那裡泡了 20 分鐘，想了一些事。",[27,407],{},[30,409,410],{"id":410},"給也想在宜蘭泡完湯順便舒壓的你",[14,412,413],{},"如果你跟我一樣，某個週末突然不想回台北，想在宜蘭多待一晚：",[415,416,417,424,430,436,442,448],"ol",{},[418,419,420,423],"li",{},[52,421,422],{},"先泡湯再找養生館","——泡完湯肌肉放鬆，按摩的體感會好很多",[418,425,426,429],{},[52,427,428],{},"礁溪泡湯、羅東找店","——礁溪觀光區的店偏貴且觀光客多，羅東的在地店價格實在、不會被當盤子",[418,431,432,435],{},[52,433,434],{},"預算抓 NT$2,000","——羅東養生館半套 NT$1,600-1,800，加上來回車票和宵夜，NT$2,000 綽綽有餘",[418,437,438,441],{},[52,439,440],{},"找朋友介紹的幹部","——不要在路邊找、不要信網路廣告，朋友介紹的最安全",[418,443,444,447],{},[52,445,446],{},"住羅東不住礁溪","——旅館便宜（NT$1,200-1,500）、離夜市近、養生館選擇多",[418,449,450,453],{},[52,451,452],{},"宵夜吃羅東夜市","——阿灶伯羊肉湯開到凌晨 1 點，舒壓完去吃一碗暖胃",[14,455,456,457,462,463,462,467],{},"想看更完整的宜蘭攻略？👉 ",[458,459,461],"a",{"href":460},"\u002Fguides\u002Ftaiwan-half-service-guide","全台半套店攻略"," ｜ ",[458,464,466],{"href":465},"\u002Fguides\u002Fdingdian-vs-waisong-tea","定點茶 vs 外送茶怎麼選",[458,468,472],{"href":469,"rel":470},"https:\u002F\u002Fgoh1.vip\u002Frelax\u002Fyilan\u002F",[471],"nofollow","查看宜蘭即時名單",[474,475,477],"guide-contact",{"title":476},"想去宜蘭但不知道怎麼安排？",[14,478,479],{},"從泡湯行程到養生館推薦，幫你規劃一整晚的放鬆路線。新手友善、流程透明，不怕踩雷。",[14,481,482],{},"那個週六之後，「去宜蘭」對我來說有了新的意義。不只是泡溫泉和逛夜市，而是在離台北 50 分鐘的地方，找到從裡到外的放鬆。從湯圍溝的 42 度熱水，到羅東養生會館的薰衣草按摩油。",[14,484,485],{},[52,486,487],{},"宜蘭很近。放鬆不用跑很遠。",{"title":489,"searchDepth":490,"depth":490,"links":491},"",3,[492,494,495,496,497,498,499,500,501,502,503],{"id":32,"depth":493,"text":33},2,{"id":70,"depth":493,"text":71},{"id":89,"depth":493,"text":90},{"id":178,"depth":493,"text":179},{"id":208,"depth":493,"text":209},{"id":239,"depth":493,"text":240},{"id":260,"depth":493,"text":261},{"id":305,"depth":493,"text":305},{"id":331,"depth":493,"text":332},{"id":394,"depth":493,"text":395},{"id":410,"depth":493,"text":410},"宜蘭","\u002Fimage\u002Fcover-diary-yilan.webp","本來只是去礁溪泡個溫泉，結果泡完太放鬆不想回台北，索性搭車到羅東找了一家養生館。這是那一晚從溫泉到養生館的完整紀錄。","md",false,[510],{"url":469,"text":472},{},true,"\u002Fdiaries\u002Fyilan-hotspring-spa","2026-04-12",{"title":5,"description":506},"diaries\u002Fyilan-hotspring-spa",[518,519,520,521,522,523,524,525,526,527,528,529,530,531],"宜蘭個工","礁溪溫泉","羅東養生館","宜蘭養生館","宜蘭舒壓","礁溪夜生活","溫泉養生","養生館日誌","養生館體驗","第一次","新手攻略","宜蘭旅行","羅東夜市","2026宜蘭",0,"2I8j786skvSCdafUw4AUMHLUCsJhcFQVYT2_CwZdSW4",[535,537,539,540,542,543,545,547,549,550,552,553,555,557,559,561,562,563,564,565,566,568,569,570,571,572,574,575,576,577,578,579,581,582,583,584,585,586,587,588,589,591,592,593,594,595],{"city":536},"高雄",{"city":538},"台中",{"city":538},{"city":541},"雲林",{"city":536},{"city":544},"基隆",{"city":546},"屏東",{"city":548},"南投",{"city":538},{"city":551},"台北・萬華",{"city":504},{"city":554},"彰化",{"city":556},"嘉義",{"city":558},"全台",{"city":560},"新竹",{"city":558},{"city":536},{"city":536},{"city":536},{"city":544},{"city":567},"台北",{"city":548},{"city":546},{"city":538},{"city":538},{"city":573},"台南",{"city":573},{"city":567},{"city":567},{"city":558},{"city":558},{"city":580},"桃園",{"city":580},{"city":504},{"city":541},{"city":548},{"city":546},{"city":541},{"city":560},{"city":536},{"city":590},"高雄・楠梓",{"city":544},{"city":504},{"city":538},{"city":538},{"city":573},[597,601,605,610],{"path":598,"title":599,"coverImage":600,"publishedAt":514},"\u002Fdiaries\u002Fkaohsiung-jiuru-night","高雄九如路深夜實錄｜從後驛站走到自立路，養生館一條街的 45 分鐘","\u002Fimage\u002Fcover-diary-jiuru.webp",{"path":602,"title":603,"coverImage":604,"publishedAt":514},"\u002Fdiaries\u002Ftaichung-beida-spa","台中北大路養生館的那一夜｜加班到十一點，推開那扇門的三十分鐘","\u002Fimage\u002Fcover-diary-taichung-beida.webp",{"path":606,"title":607,"coverImage":608,"publishedAt":609},"\u002Fdiaries\u002Fpuli-business-trip-spa","埔里出差的意外收穫｜暨大演講後的那一夜——酒廠、紹興、和一個 LINE 訊息","\u002Fimage\u002Fcover-diary-puli.webp","2026-04-11",{"path":611,"title":612,"coverImage":613,"publishedAt":614},"\u002Fdiaries\u002Fkenting-detour-spa","墾丁順路找舒壓的那一夜｜從南灣海邊到恆春鎮上的意外收穫","\u002Fimage\u002Fcover-diary-kenting.webp","2026-04-10",1775619352634]